Comme Des Garçons, the brainchild of Rei Kawakubo, has long been recognized as one of the most innovative and avant-garde fashion houses in the world. Since its inception in 1969, the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of what fashion can be, defying conventions and challenging the status quo. Kawakubo’s vision has always been about more than just creating clothes; she approaches fashion as a medium for exploring complex ideas, addressing social issues, and questioning traditional notions of beauty. Over the years, Comme Des Garçons has produced some of the most thought-provoking and groundbreaking collections in the fashion world. In this article, we will take a deep dive into the best Comme Des Garçons collections that you need to see. These collections not only showcase Kawakubo’s genius but also represent pivotal moments in the history of fashion, each collection telling a unique story through its design.
The Beginning of the Revolution:
The Spring/Summer 1981 collection is one of the most iconic and important moments in the history of Comme des Garçons Site Officiel. This collection, which was shown during Paris Fashion Week, marked the brand’s official debut on the international fashion stage. It was also the moment when Kawakubo began to define her signature aesthetic, which was rooted in deconstruction, asymmetry, and a rejection of traditional beauty standards. The Spring/Summer 1981 collection featured a predominantly black and white color palette, with oversized silhouettes, raw edges, and distressed fabrics. The garments were deliberately unfinished and imperfect, reflecting Kawakubo’s desire to challenge the fashion industry’s obsession with perfection and luxury. This collection was revolutionary because it went against everything that was popular in fashion at the time. The 1980s were dominated by glamor and excess, with designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani leading the way with their polished, elegant designs. Kawakubo’s collection, with its rough textures and unconventional shapes, was a stark contrast to this, and it shocked the fashion world. The Spring/Summer 1981 collection was also significant because it introduced the concept of “anti-fashion,” a term that would come to define much of Kawakubo’s work in the years to come. Anti-fashion is about rejecting the traditional norms of the fashion industry, such as trends, beauty, and commercialism, and instead focusing on creativity, originality, and artistic expression. This collection was the beginning of Comme Des Garçons’ long-standing tradition of challenging the fashion industry and pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be.
Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body:
One of the most iconic and influential collections in the history of Comme Des Garçons is the Fall/Winter 1997 collection, titled “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body.” This collection is often referred to as the “lumps and bumps” collection because of the exaggerated, padded shapes that distorted the natural human form. The garments in this collection featured bulging, protruding shapes that created an almost grotesque silhouette, challenging the traditional idea of the “ideal” body shape. Kawakubo was not interested in creating clothes that flattered the body; instead, she wanted to challenge the audience’s perception of the human form and the relationship between the body and clothing. The collection was met with both shock and fascination when it was first shown. Many people did not understand what Kawakubo was trying to achieve, and some critics even described the collection as “ugly” or “unwearable.” However, over time, “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” has come to be regarded as one of the most important collections in fashion history. It was groundbreaking because it challenged the idea that fashion should be about making people look beautiful or glamorous. Instead, Kawakubo used fashion as a medium to explore deeper questions about identity, body image, and the role of clothing in shaping our perception of the body. The padded shapes in the collection also had a deeper symbolic meaning, representing the layers of armor that people build around themselves to protect their inner selves. This collection was not just about creating visually striking garments; it was about making a statement and provoking thought.
Not Making Clothes:
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection, titled “Not Making Clothes,” is one of the most radical and thought-provoking collections that Comme des Garçon has ever produced. As the title suggests, this collection was not about creating wearable garments; it was about challenging the very concept of clothing itself. The collection featured exaggerated, sculptural shapes that defied the traditional purpose of clothing, with garments that were intentionally unwearable. Kawakubo used this collection as a way to question the fashion industry’s obsession with trends, consumerism, and commercial success. The pieces in this collection were more like works of art than functional clothing, with abstract, voluminous shapes that enveloped the body. Some of the garments resembled sculptures or architectural structures, with layers of fabric that twisted and folded in unexpected ways. The collection was a direct critique of the fashion industry’s focus on selling clothes and making profits, rather than on creativity and artistic expression. Kawakubo wanted to remind people that fashion is not just about making clothes; it is about creating something meaningful and thought-provoking. “Not Making Clothes” was also significant because it blurred the line between fashion and art. Kawakubo has always viewed fashion as a form of artistic expression, and this collection was a perfect example of that philosophy. By creating garments that were intentionally unwearable, Kawakubo was challenging the audience to think about the purpose of clothing and the role of fashion in society. This collection was a bold statement about the state of the fashion industry and a reminder that fashion can be more than just a business; it can be a form of art.
Broken Bride:
The Fall/Winter 2006 collection, titled “Broken Bride,” is another iconic Comme Des Garçons collection that showcases Kawakubo’s genius for storytelling through fashion. This collection was inspired by the idea of a bride who has been abandoned or rejected, and the garments in the collection reflected the emotional turmoil of this character. The collection featured deconstructed bridal gowns, with torn fabrics, uneven hems, and exposed seams. The garments were deliberately imperfect, reflecting the idea of a bride who has been “broken” both physically and emotionally. The “Broken Bride” collection was a powerful exploration of the themes of love, loss, and vulnerability. Kawakubo used fashion to tell a story about the human experience, with each garment representing a different aspect of the bride’s emotional journey. Some of the dresses were almost completely destroyed, with large holes and tears, while others were more intact but still had a sense of fragility and imperfection. The collection was also significant because it challenged the traditional idea of the perfect bride. Bridal fashion is often associated with purity, beauty, and perfection, but Kawakubo wanted to subvert these expectations. By creating garments that were imperfect and deconstructed, she was challenging the audience to rethink their ideas about beauty and femininity. The “Broken Bride” collection is a perfect example of how Kawakubo uses fashion as a medium to explore complex emotions and to tell stories that resonate with people on a deeper level.
The Power of White:
The Spring/Summer 1992 collection, often referred to as “The Power of White,” is one of the most iconic and influential collections in Comme Des Garçons’ history. This collection was a departure from the brand’s usual dark, moody aesthetic, as it featured an all-white color palette. However, despite the absence of color, the collection was anything but simple. Kawakubo used the color white as a canvas to explore themes of purity, minimalism, and power. The garments in this collection were characterized by their clean lines, oversized silhouettes, and intricate details. Kawakubo used layers of white fabric to create voluminous shapes that enveloped the body, giving the garments a sense of grandeur and power. The collection was also notable for its use of unconventional materials, such as paper and plastic, which added a sculptural quality to the garments. “The Power of White” was significant because it challenged the traditional associations of the color white. In fashion, white is often associated with purity, innocence, and simplicity, but Kawakubo used it to convey strength, complexity, and power. The collection was a perfect example of how Kawakubo uses fashion to subvert traditional ideas and to challenge the audience’s expectations. The all-white color palette also allowed Kawakubo to focus on the form and structure of the garments, rather than on color or embellishment. This minimalist approach highlighted Kawakubo’s skill as a designer and her ability to create visually striking garments without relying on excessive decoration.
The Crushing Collection:
The Fall/Winter 2012 collection, often referred to as “The Crushing Collection,” is another standout moment in Comme Des Garçons’ history. This collection was inspired by the concept of “crushing,” and the garments reflected this theme with their distorted, flattened shapes. The pieces in this collection appeared to be collapsing in on themselves, with layers of fabric that were bunched, folded, and compressed. The result was a series of garments that looked as though they had been crushed under an invisible weight. Kawakubo used this collection as a way to explore the fragility of the human body and the idea of physical and emotional pressure. The “Crushing” collection was significant because it challenged the traditional idea of clothing as something that should enhance or flatter the body. Instead, Kawakubo used fashion to explore the concept of vulnerability and the idea that the human body can be fragile and imperfect. The distorted shapes in the collection were a metaphor for the pressures that people face in their everyday lives, both physically and emotionally. This collection was also notable for its use of unconventional materials, such as padded fabrics and industrial textiles, which added a sense of weight and texture to the garments. The “Crushing” collection was a powerful exploration of the human experience and a reminder that fashion can be used to communicate complex ideas and emotions.
